Hyacinth

The History of the Hyacinth

As we know, the name ‘hyacinth’ can be traced back to ancient times. A relict of a non-Greek language, sometimes referred to as Thracopelasgian, spoken approximately 4,000 years ago, specifically. Apparently connected with the blue color of water, its name indicates a reference to the original species, Hyacinthus orientalis, which tended to be blue in color.

The more common, present-day hyacinth or “Dutch” hyacinth was prevalent in ancient times as a wildflower in many parts of the eastern Mediterranean, through Asia Minor and Syria into Iran and Iraq. Many other orientalis varieties have been depicted ever since the 16th century, but the only forms of Hyacinthus orientalis appearing in the current 1989 Classified List and International Registrar of Hyacinths compiled by the Royal General Bulbgrowers’ Association is the species itself and Hyacinthus orientalis albulus. Albulus was an early flowering strain native to the South of France. It dawned a white flower on a small, slender spike and carried the vernacular name of “Roman hyacinth.”

Hyacinths, ever prevalent in poetry, were first mentioned by epic poet, Homer, in the Iliad. He describes the blooms as being among the many flowers which formed the couch of Hera, the queen of heaven and earth. The bloom was also botanically listed by Greek philosopher Theophrastus in 372-297 BCE. Talk about an ancient flower!

Next up, the hyacinth hit the Netherlands and England. Carolus Clusius, the celebrated Curator of the botanical gardens at Leiden, initiated the cultivation of bulbs in Western Europe. Through Clusius, Holland became the commercial bulb growing center of the world. In 1600, the Botanical Gardens at Leiden only cataloged a few hyacinth varieties. In his Rarorium Plantarum Historia, Clusius illustrated many new Hyacinthus orientalis varieties.

Fashion has also been a huge factor in the hyacinth’s extreme popularity. Madame de Pompadour was a big promoter of these sweet-smelling blooms. She ensured that Louis XV had many hyacinth plants throughout his various palace gardens. Hyacinths became a staple in many great halls, as well as embellishing the frail necks of high society. [2]

First things first, think ahead about your planting site. You’re going to want to plant your new hyacinths in well-draining, moderately fertile soil in sun or partial shade. Before you plant your bulbs, loosen up the soil a bit and work in some compost or bonemeal for fertility.

Once you’re ready for planting, plant your bulbs 4 inches deep and a minimum of 3 inches apart from one another. Set the bulb in the hole with the pointy end facing upward. After you’ve planted your bulbs, cover them up with soil and water thoroughly. If you are transplanting your hyacinth plants, water them sparingly and then don’t water them again until the flower buds appear the following year.

Pro Tip: Hyacinth bulbs contain oxalic acid, which can irritate the skin. Be sure to use gloves when handling these bulbs for extended periods of time.

You can also force, if you will, your hyacinth bulbs into an early growing period for indoor display throughout the winter months. Plant them with just the tips showing in a soil-based potting mix in containers that have drainage holes. Keep them in a dark place with temperatures above freezing but no higher than 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celsius) for at least 10 weeks to allow its roots to fully develop. When your hyacinth shoots are about 1 inch long, increase their light exposure and temperature gradually. Water them carefully, avoiding getting the shoots wet or water-logging the soil. The soil should be moist after watering but not wet. After they have flowered, you can then transplant your forced hyacinths to the garden, and they will flower once again the following years to come! [3]

If you’ve ever smelled the light floral scent of a hyacinth flower, you’ll know that it quite literally takes everything inside of you not to cut them all up and hoard them all inside your home.

Don’t worry; you’re so not alone.

Potted hyacinths are an excellent alternative to this; let your garden thrive while still getting to enjoy them inside! Even better, if you give them the proper care, they’ll continue to bloom when they’re next blooming cycle hits!

After about 8-12 weeks of blooming, your hyacinth plant will begin to go dormant. The first thing to do is to simply let the flowers die, and the leaves wither.

We know, it’s hard to watch.

Once most of the flowers have turned brown, begin to deadhead your plant by cutting the entire flower stalk off. At this point, its leaves should still be green and should just be left alone to die off on their own. Be careful not to break or bend any of your hyacinth’s leaves, as this will keep them from storing up the necessary energy for their next blooming cycle. Use a good indoor plant fertilizer to help them build up more energy and be sure not to over-water! If watered too much, the bulbs have the potential to rot. [4]

If you’re cutting your hyacinths and bringing them inside from the garden, be sure to rinse off the stems and place them in a small amount of water, a little less than half a vase full. The stalks of your hyacinth can cause water-logging in the entire flower if they’re left to sit in too much water.